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DIY - Plywood / EPMD Pondliner Tank Custom built plywood tanks work great for housing your turtles if you do not intend to "show" them. The following is brief "how to" overview of my plywood breeding tanks; the same general plans were followed for both 90 gallon and 150 gallon tanks. I chose the internal braces because of the limited space in the turtle room. For anything over 150 gallons I would utilize an external frame to handle the outward pressure of the water. |
90 Gallon Tank Materials: 2" Fine Thread Drywall screws 1 gallon Seal Krete Epoxy-Seal Titebond III wood glue 4' x 8' 3/4" Plywood (2 sheets) - enough for two tanks 2" x 4" x 8' interior stud (2) 45 mil EPDM (10' x 10') - enough for two tanks 1" x 3" x 8' pine board (2) - for top trim 1" x 2" x 4' treated lumber strip - for the tension bar 4" angle bracket (4) - for top trim |
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DIY Project - Plywood Tank |
The tank: (1 sheet) 4' x 8' 3/4" exterior grade Plywood (2) 2" x 4" x 8' stud Cut: End pieces (2): 22.5" wide x 18.0" tall Side pieces (2):48.0" wide x 18.0" tall Bottom piece (1): 24.0" wide x 48.0" long Internal braces are cut from a standard 2" x 4" x 8' Inside vertical corners (2): 18.0" long pieces - cut diagonally in half lengthwise for a total of four braces Inside base braces: short side (1): 22.5" long piece - cut diagonally in half lengthwise for a total of two short braces long side (1): 48.0" long piece - cut diagonally in half lengthwise for a total of two long braces |
Assembly: Stand the two End pieces and the two Side pieces up on the Bottom piece just as the tank would look after assembly. Run a bead of glue down the outer edge of the End piece and then screw together the edge using six 2" fine drywall screws approximately four inches apart. Quickly repeat for the remaining three corners. Flip the tank over on its top edge, lift off the bottom and run a bead of glue around the bottom edge. Replace the bottom and using the 2" fine drywall screws (three inches apart) attach the base to the sides. |
After the walls and base have been assembled it is time to install the internal braces. For this part you will want to do a dry run with all internal braces in place prior to any gluing or screws. Measure the inside base lengths and trim the base braces to fit and miter the corners. Next place the base braces in place and set the vertical braces into each corner (on top of the base braces). Using a pencil mark the angle where you will need to trim so that the vertical brace can slide down behind the base braces. Once all pieces have been laid into place, remove and apply a generous amount of glue to all surfaces that will be touching. Wipe away any extra glue with a damp rag. From the outside sink more 2" drywall screws into the corner and base braces from the sides and bottom approximately four inches apart. Allow the glue to cure for at least 24 hours before moving the tank. |
Paint: Once the glue has dried it is time to apply the epoxy. I coated the entire tank (top, bottom, inside, and out) with two coats of epoxy paint. I waited 24 to 48 hours between coats for drying as it is easier to see the missed areas or those that were a bit thinner. Liner: Once the epoxy paint has cured you can lay the liner. Work the liner around until all the wrinkles are out and each of the corners have been tucked and folded. Once the liner is in place and you have a three to six inch overhang, anchor the top of the liner with crown staples. Once the liner is secure you can add a top trim piece. |
Don't forget to add a tension strap or bar across the center of the tank to avoid bowing of the walls and possible structural failure! |
DIY Projects - Plywood / EPMD Pondliner Tank & Nesting Box (90 & 150 gallon) - Flexible liner free form pond (540 gallon) - Biological Filters (5 gallon) - Rubbermaid Incubators |
DIY - Nesting Box / Estivation Box The plans below are for the boxes that fit both the 90 and 150 plywood tanks. My primary goal with a nesting box is to provide both surface area and depth in addition to ease of checking for eggs. The minimum recommended depth for most turtles is about 8 inches (20 cm). The picture at right should give you an idea of the surface area a 30 gallon tote offers. Many turtles will also utilize these boxes as estivation areas. You can add fake or potted plants, mulch, rotting logs, etc. for added security; just remember that most of it will end up in the tank or the filter. |
Nesting Box Materials: (1) 30 gallon Sterilite storage tote - for 150 gallon plywood tank or (1) 18 gallon Sterilite storage tote - for 90 gallon plywood tank (2) 18" x 7.5" slider foundation vents 1" drywall screws 1" x 1/2" scrap wood for interior braces 2" x 4" stud scrap - cut two 6" long pieces for handle braces |
Assembly: Step 1: Attach the 2" x 4" x 6" pieces of wood beneath the handles using two drywall screws. Set the tote into the tank to ensure it fits. Step 2: Attach interior braces to the tote. Be sure only to drill screws into braces above the water line or you will flood the nesting box. Step 3: Ramp -Attach the two foundation vents together using drywall screws. Step 4: Slide the ramp into groves and anchor it into interior braces using two screws on each side. Be sure to check the slope of the ramp so it reaches the water easily. Anchor the face of the ramp to the bottom of the opening using three screws to close the gap between the nesting box and the ramp. Step 5: Place entire nesting box into tank to make sure it fits and that the ramp will reach the water. Step 6: Fill box with nesting material; personally I prefer a 1:1 mixture of sand to peat moss to retain moisture. Not all species of turtles like nesting in sand. Research the individual needs of your species. |
Cut: Opening: 15" wide x 5.0" tall Side notches (2): 3/16" wide x 1.0" tall Interior braces (2) - measure from the bottom of the tote to the top of the opening |
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